The Legacy of Grace Mirabella
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The Legacy of
Grace Mirabella
When Grace Mirabella walked into the American Society of Magazine Editors luncheon at the Harvard Club in Manhattan in the summer of 1989, the room already knew who she was. She stepped up to the podium and said, "I don't want to sound heavy, and I'm not running for office. But we take women seriously," (Greco). This statement envelops the concept that this woman did not simply occupy the cultural space of fashion journalism; she transformed it, deliberately and permanently, in her own terms.
Mirabella had spent many years at Vogue trying to find a way to speak to the woman that she saw before the culture fully did. She ended up building a magazine around this woman—the financially independent, professionally ambitious, and fashion-forward woman. Mirabella's steady and deliberate reorientation of who the platform believes its audience to be is what true, meaningful transformation looks like.
When Mirabella was dismissed in 1988, the institution believed it could simply replace her to get back the more surface-level vision they sought after. However, what Grace Mirabella built at Vogue—the values, the voice, and the vision of who fashion journalism was for—did not belong to Condé Nast. They belonged to Mirabella herself, and when she lauched Mirabella magazine, she proved it. Mirabella was not, in any way, a replica of what she had created at Vogue. It was an evolution of fashion journalism in and of itself. Her publication was more direct, substantive, and entirely her own. In Stephen Greco's American Way magazine feature of Mirabella, she described her reader as a woman who could discuss Solzhenitsyn as well as the suit she was wearing (Greco). She wanted to create a space in fashion media that did not suffer from, what she called, "terminal trendiness," and acknowledged readers as intelligent adults with complex lives (Greco).
The press response to the launch of Mirabella's Mirabella truly demonstrated how big her story had become. Newsrooms from Denver to New Jersey ran features on her return, and many in between. The breadth of coverage came as a result of a woman being pushed out of a space she built, and refusing to disappear.
Mirabella magazine folded in 2000 (Kuczynski, C1), but its significance does not rest on how long it lasted. It rests on the fact that it existed at all. Grace Mirabella transformed Vogue into something more grounded and authentic. When the institution did not like that, and tried to silence her by pushing her out the door, she proved it was never their concept to claim. She built something new and showed her version had always belonged to her. Grace Mirabella left behind more than just a magazine and a presence in the fashion journalism industry. She left behind a way of inhabiting space, on her own terms.
